A Serious Meal

Early in Victoria's reign, the Duchess of Bedford, who habitually suffered

"a sinking feeling 'round 5 o'clock," started taking tea with thin sandwiches

and cakes, and the afternoon tea hour was born, a custom that was to evolve

into a serious meal known as high tea.

The first time I read this on the commemorative ceramic tile that graces every table in the Fairmont Empress Victoria's afternoon tea lobby, I knew that I had discovered a tradition to make my own. After 25 years of life, there are few things that I can say I know for sure; one of them is to forget time, because cookies and cake heal all wounds.

Afternoon tea is by far my favorite meal. Floral dresses and lace, fine patterned china and polished silverware, freshly baked scones and handmade jam, and of course, the aroma of delicious steeped tea--all of these combine to create an experience that satisfies the senses like no other. And if you're in the Vancouver area, there is no place that has a better atmosphere for afternoon tea than the Fairmont Empress hotel in Victoria.

The Empress itself is a grand, historic building situated right on Victoria's main harbor and next to Parliament. Its ivy-covered brick walls and turrets make it look more like an old English castle than a hotel. Walkways under arches teeming with kiwi vines, rose gardens, hidden courtyards and the constant sound of running water are all part of this heritage building's Old World charm. 

                                           

Entering the hotel's famous tea lobby is an experience unto itself. The room is spacious and sparkles like a glittering jewel from the natural light that floods it through floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the harbor. Heavy draped curtains and plush carpets, along with molded ceilings and antique furniture, transport guests back into another time when gentlemen wore hats and ladies swathed themselves in layers of taffeta and silk. I suppose this is part of what makes the tradition so special: that it started in another century and has survived to this day as an elegant reminder of the past. 

                                    

Our meal began with the tea selection. The Empress offers a range of teas from black to green, Western to Eastern, teas that make you feel right at home and others that take you to a far away land; among all of these choices, however, the hotel's special Empress blend is the one that stands out. It is a simple black tea that "takes milk well" and has distinct notes of honey and vanilla, a perfect complement to the trays of sweet treats served to guests. After a pot of this beautiful blend was brought to our table, we were given cups of strawberries and fresh Devonshire cream.

I was lucky to get a shot of this starter because it was so good that I ate it embarrassingly fast. The next course was the three-tiered marvel of thin sandwiches, the Empress's much-loved golden raisin scones that taste best when paired with Empress cream and strawberry jam and an assortment of miniature pastries. 

Sandwiches included a smoked salmon and cream cheese pinwheel, mushroom paste on toast, an egg salad on a croissant, mango chicken curry with pumpernickel bread and a carrot-ginger sandwich on soft white bread that will tickle the palate of even the staunchest vegetable-hater.

The scones were my personal favorite. After all, what is afternoon tea without them? The Empress bakes them fresh daily and keeps the recipe as a jealously guarded secret. If you like butter, you'll love these scones. Golden raisins tucked into soft, moist cake pair well with the traditional English cream and strawberry jam. The only downside is that you'll have to go through a brief moment of despair when you've finished yours.

As if the entire meal wasn't one long dessert, we topped it off with a plate of delicate mini pastries. Don't ask me how I finished them all, but my theory is that I have a completely separate space in my stomach for sugar. The pastries were a square of green tea cheesecake (the best one), a Valrhona chocolate tulip with a hidden wild cherry, rose petal shortbread cookies, a strawberry lemon tart and chocolate cake with tricolor buttercream.

Victoria can be reached by ferry from Tsawassen Bay terminal, which is a 40-minute drive from downtown Vancouver. The ride to Schwartz Bay is a comfortable hour and a half and a 30-minute drive to downtown Victoria brings you to the Empress hotel on Government Street. The trip can be accomplished in a day, just be sure to make ferry reservations ahead of time. Reservations for afternoon tea are also highly recommended and can be made by phone at (250) 389-2727. There is a dress code, but it's undoubtedly worth the trouble of getting dressed up for this incomparable experience.   

View the menu and price range at http://www.fairmont.com/empress/GuestServices/Restaurants/AfternoonTea.htm